By Beleaev Family | International Caviar & Gourmet company, Head Office London | beleaev.com
Black truffle risotto is the winter cousin to the famous white truffle dish. The technique is similar, the spirit is similar, but the flavour profile is completely different. Where white truffle is aggressive, garlicky, and floral, black truffle is deep, earthy, and chocolatey. The risotto has to honour that difference.
Black truffle (Tuber melanosporum, also called the Périgord truffle) has season from December to March, peaking in January.
Unlike white truffle, black truffle benefits from being lightly warmed. This is the key technical difference. Black truffle aroma intensifies with gentle heat, where white truffle aroma is destroyed by it.
The Ingredients
Serves 4
- 320g Carnaroli rice
- 1 small white onion, very finely diced
- 30g unsalted butter, plus 30g cold butter for finishing
- 100ml dry white wine
- 1.2 litres hot light chicken stock
- 60g Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated
- 40-48g fresh black truffle , divided
- Sea salt and white pepper
Brush the truffle gently with a soft toothbrush and a tiny amount of cold water to remove dirt. Pat completely dry. Wrap in paper, never plastic.
The Method, Step by Step
Step 1: Sweat the Onion and Toast the Rice
Melt 30g of butter in a wide heavy pan over medium-low heat. Add the finely diced onion with a pinch of salt. Cook for 6-7 minutes until soft and translucent.
Add the rice. Stir constantly for 90 seconds until the grains are slightly translucent at the edges with a small white centre.
Step 2: Add Wine and Stock
Pour in the white wine. Stir until absorbed, around 90 seconds.
Add hot stock one ladle at a time (around 150ml each), stirring constantly. As each ladle is mostly absorbed, add the next. Continue for around 17 minutes until the rice is plump, creamy, and just past al dente.
Step 3: First Truffle Addition (Inside the Risotto)
Take the pan off the heat. Finely chop or grate around 16-20g of the black truffle (around half the total).
Add the cold cubed butter, grated parmesan, and chopped truffle to the pan. Stir vigorously for 60 seconds. The truffle should be fully incorporated into the silky risotto, releasing its aroma into the warm rice. This is the key technical difference from white truffle preparation.
Taste for salt. Crack a small pinch of white pepper.
Step 4: Plate and Shave the Rest
Spoon into warm shallow bowls. The risotto should be glossy and slightly loose, rippling when you tilt the bowl.
Shave the remaining 24-28g of truffle directly over each bowl with a truffle slicer or Microplane, aiming for paper-thin slices. Around 6-7g of fresh shavings per bowl.
Serve immediately. Black truffle aroma develops over 30-60 seconds on contact with warm rice, intensifying as it sits briefly.
Tips for Getting It Right
The secret is using the truffle in two stages. Fold half into the risotto during the final stirring stage, allowing the gentle heat to release its aroma and infuse the rice. Save the remaining half for fresh shavings over the finished dish.
This approach creates layers of flavour: rich, earthy depth throughout the risotto, with a fresh burst of truffle aroma and an elegant finish on top.
Don't overheat the truffle. Stirring chopped truffle into hot risotto is fine. Putting it on direct heat for more than a few seconds destroys the volatile compounds. Off the heat, residual warmth is enough.
Brush, don't wash, the truffle. Truffles absorb water like a sponge, which dilutes the flavour. Use a soft brush and a tiny damp cloth to clean, never running water.
Variations and Pairings
With caviar: Add 10g of Royal Oscietra per portion alongside the truffle. The salinity cuts through the truffle richness beautifully.
With wild mushrooms: Add 100g of finely sliced wild mushrooms (porcini, chanterelles, or trompettes) sautéed in butter, stirred into the risotto during mantecatura. Then top with truffle. This is the more accessible mushroom-and-truffle version that doesn't need as much truffle to feel impactful.
With seared steak: Slice a 200g aged ribeye thinly and place over the risotto before topping with truffle. This is the version served at Riva and Locanda Locatelli in London.
Wine pairing: A Barolo, a Barbaresco, or a Brunello di Montalcino. A vintage Bourgogne also works. Avoid Riesling and crisp whites, the dish needs depth to match.
For more truffle dishes, see our white truffle risotto and tagliatelle al tartufo recipes.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between black and white truffle?
Black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) is winter-only, found mainly in France's Périgord region and Italy's Umbria and Abruzzo. The flavour is deep, earthy, and slightly chocolatey. White truffle (Tuber magnatum) is autumn-only, found mainly in Italy's Piedmont. The flavour is intense, garlicky, and almost petrol-like. White truffle is roughly twice the price and more delicate. They're used in different ways: black benefits from gentle warming, white must stay raw.
How much black truffle per person?
10-12g of fresh black truffle per person is the right amount. Black truffle is less intense than white, so larger portions work. For 4 people, 40-48g of truffle (a small piece the size of a walnut or slightly larger) is correct.
Can I freeze fresh black truffle?
Yes, with caveats. Black truffle freezes better than white. Wrap whole truffles in cling film, then aluminium foil, and freeze for up to 3 months. Use directly from frozen, grating or shaving while still partially solid. The texture changes slightly but the aroma holds well. Never refreeze.
Why is my truffle aroma weak?
Most likely the truffle is the wrong species, or it's old, or it's been stored wet. Real Périgord truffle smells aggressive and earthy from the moment you unwrap it. Buy from a specialist supplier who can verify the species.
_________________
A plate of black truffle risotto in January, with a glass of Barolo and a quiet evening, is one of those dining experiences that justifies the cost of the truffle. Discover Beleaev's collection of caviar and gourmet ingredients at beleaev.com.
Beleaev is an international caviar and gourmet food company with fulfilment hubs across the UK, Europe, the UAE, and the United States. We are committed to sourcing responsibly farmed, sustainable products and delivering them to customers within 24 to 48 hours, ensuring exceptional freshness and quality.
447706084493
